How do you make an egg incubator?
An egg incubator is a device used to hatch eggs artificially. It provides the right conditions for eggs to develop into chicks, without requiring the mother hen. Egg incubators can be used to hatch a variety of poultry and game bird eggs, including chickens, ducks, geese, pheasants, quail and other species.
Buying an egg incubator can be an expensive option, so why not try building it yourself?
Making your own egg incubator is a relatively simple process that allows you to save money and have more control over the hatching process, the difficulty lies in maintaining temperature and humidity levels.
To ensure successful incubation, it is important to understand the steps involved in setting up your own egg incubator and managing the process of hatching eggs. Incubating eggs is a process that requires careful monitoring and precise parameters to ensure successful hatching. This guide will provide you with all the necessary information on how to correctly set up your egg incubator and care for your developing chicks.
Components you will need
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A container
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Heat source e.g. heat lamp, ceramic bulb, heating wire or heating mat.
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A source of water.
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Sensors to monitor temperature & humidity
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Air flow e.g. a fan or cut some holes in container.
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Floor material for when the eggs hatch.
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Optionally an automatic egg turner device, otherwise you will need to do this by hand.
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An egg candler or torch to check the health of the eggs.
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Food & water source for after hatching e.g. feeders & drinkers.
Step 1: select your containers
Select a container size suitable for the number of eggs you intend to hatch. Ideally use a container that is insulated to keep heat and humidity levels constant, some DIY examples include Styrofoam, cooler boxes, plastic storage boxes etc. You will want to keep an eye on the eggs as well so a good option is to incorporate some sort of viewing port so you don’t need to keep removing the lid and therefore cause temperature and humidity levels to fluctuate e.g. use a picture frame with glass insert, or maybe a plastic clear lid.
Step 2: select and install your heat source.
Eggs should be kept at a constant temperature of 37.5C (99.5F). A popular choice for a heat source is to use standard 25 watt bulb attached to a lamp holder or slotted into the side of the container. You may wish to wire up a temperature controller to a heat source such as a heat lamp, bulb, pad or use heating wire. This will help you main optimal temperature constantly. If using a bulb then the wattage of the bulb should be appropriate for the size of your incubator. Ceramic heat bulbs are often safer options than heat lamps as there is less risk of materials catching fire. To reduce heat you can experiment cutting holes in the container until the temperature falls to right level. Use a bulb with a dimmer switch, use a heat pad with adjustable level, hook up some heating wire etc.
*Make sure to cover any heat source to protect chicks from getting burnt. e.g. wire mesh, also make sure it isn’t going to set the container on fire also!
Step 3: set up a water source and monitor humidity
For the first 18 days the humidity level should be kept between 45-60% (somewhere in the middle i.e. around 55% is ideal). For the final 3 days of incubation, the humidity needs to be raised to between 65-75% to alert the egg that hatching will be happening soon.
To maintain humidity levels, use a container, or something similar to hold water and keep humidity at the right level. It is a good idea to cover water or use a shallow dish as hatched chicks could easily drown, or you could cover containers with a mesh. Using a sponge can help adjust humidity levels e.g. sponge up water to reduce humidity and squeeze out more water to increase humidity. To monitor humidity levels you will need a hygrometer sensor.
*If using temperature and humidity sensors ensure they are placed next to eggs for accurate readings as home-made incubators tend to have hot and cold spots.
Step 4: ensure air flow
A good flow of air will help keep the humidity and temperature around your eggs constant. You could cut some holes in the container and raise the eggs above the container surface to help air flow underneath. Some DIY incubators use a fan, such as those used in computers, to ensure air flow. To set this up requires some knowledge of electronics as you will have to hook it up to a power source and motor. If you are looking for more info on setting up electronics for your incubator check out: https://www.circuitlib.com/index.php/tutorials/product/63-build-an-automatic-egg-incubator
*Now is a good time test the container to make sure the temperature and humidity levels are maintained constantly at the right levels.
Step 5: select and install your floor material
Using pebbles and stones can help maintain a constant temperature at ground level. If you intend to use your incubator multiple times you may want a reusable material such as shelf liner. You could also install a wire mesh placed on a frame, to slightly elevate the eggs above the bottom of a container, this will help with air flow and consistent heat and humidity reaching the eggs. Be mindful though that your floor material is suitable for hatched chicks. A wire mesh with large holes could trap their legs and uneven surface could be difficult for the chicks to walk on.
Step 6: Turn the eggs and monitor temperature and humidity levels
This is the biggest step and the one requiring the most work. You will need to monitor the progress of your eggs throughout their development until they are ready to hatch.
Turn the eggs – You will need to turn the eggs 3-5 times a day for the first 18 days. This is to stop the embryo from sticking to the shell wall and deforming. To help remember which ones you have turned, mark the top and bottom e.g. with an ‘x’ and ‘o’. Some incubators use automatic egg turners, however if you don’t have this, you will need to turn the eggs by hand (gently). *Wear gloves or wash your hands before touching eggs to prevent the transfer of skin oils or germs to the developing chick.
Monitor heat and humidity – e.g. use a dual temperature and humidity sensor.
Candling eggs – after around 7-10 days you should use a light source such as candler or torch to check the health of the eggs. Do this one egg at a time to reduce the time they are out of the container. When you shine a light against the egg if you see that it is clear, then the egg is infertile, or the embryo died very early (remove this egg from the incubator); If a ring of red is visible within the egg, there was an embryo at some point, but it has died (remove); if you can see blood vessels within the egg, there is a live embryo inside. If you see any broken or leaking eggs then remove and dispose to prevent contamination.
Prepare for hatching – chicks will usually hatch after 21 days. If some haven’t hatched after this time, candle the eggs and give any live eggs a few more days. After hatching leave the chick hatch itself as pulling egg shell off can cause damage to the chick. It can take up to 24 hours to fully hatch, though 5-7 is more common. When all the eggs have hatched, lower the temperature to 35 C (95 degree F). When all your eggs have successfully hatched then you’ll need to move them to a ready prepared brooder at 32-35 C (90-95F) and provide food and water to the chicks, for example using our automatic feeders & drinkers. For more information on the next stage, check out our guide 'How do you brood chicks?'